Kyoto is one of the most popular tourist destinations, with its elegant atmosphere attracting many foreign visitors. While Tokyo is now the capital of Japan, Kyoto was actually the capital for over 1,000 years, from 794 to 1869. As a result, many people and restaurants have gathered in Kyoto since ancient times.
Japanese cuisine includes a genre called "Kyoto cuisine," and a type of sushi often served in Kyoto cuisine called "mackerel sushi" originated in Kyoto.
The mackerel eaten in Kyoto was caught in the fishing ports of Fukui. However, it took 2-3 days on foot to transport it to Kyoto. Thus, mackerel sushi was devised as a way to eat mackerel deliciously without losing its freshness. Mackerel sushi, made by marinating salted mackerel in vinegar and adding shari (sushi rice), becomes even more delicious as the umami permeates over several days.
"Izuu," which we'll introduce later, is famous as the first shop to serve mackerel sushi.
In this way, Kyoto, the former capital, has become a city where gourmet food gathers for various reasons. In this article, as someone who could eat sushi every day, I'll introduce five Michelin-listed restaurants in Kyoto that are absolute must-visits, followed by three restaurants where you can enjoy sushi at reasonable prices.
If you are interested in Kyoto's Foods, check the article below! I summarized how and where you can enjoy Kyoto's Foods as much as possible.
Takashi Nakadomari
Kyoto Best Sushi 2024: 5 Michelin-Listed Restaurants You Must Visit in Kyoto
Sushi Rakumi
source： Official website
"Sushi Rakumi" fuses Edomae sushi and Kyoto cuisine. The young chef serves unique sushi that can only be tasted here.
The crown jewel of Edomae sushi is "tuna." At Rakumi, they offer only one course centered around three types of tuna nigiri. You can enjoy about 20 varieties of dishes, including appetizers and sushi.
At Rakumi, they use red vinegar for the rice, making it "red shari." The combination of tuna and red vinegar is the essence of Edomae sushi, with the acidity of the red shari intensifying the flavor of the tuna.
My recommended dish that best exemplifies the fusion of Kyoto cuisine is the "pressed sushi with mackerel on a stick." It combines sweet and sour pickled kanpyo and myoga with shiso leaves, wrapped in nori, paired with thick slices of mackerel, and seared directly with charcoal.
Even foreigners who think mackerel has a strong smell will find Rakumi's mackerel sushi easy to eat, with no unpleasant odor.
- Address: 332-6 Miyoshicho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto
- Closed: Sundays, 2nd and 4th Mondays, irregular holidays
- Phone: 090-4566-3733
- Hours: Lunch starts at 12:00, Dinner [1st seating] starts at 17:00 to 19:00, [2nd seating] 19:30 to 21:30
- Website: https://gionsasaki.com/sushirakumi.html
Sushi Kawano
source：HOT PEPPER
"Sushi Kawano," located in a residential area near Kamo River and the Botanical Gardens, is a place where you can enjoy authentic Edomae sushi in Kyoto. There are two types of courses: a 14-piece nigiri course or an omakase course that includes appetizers. With many appetizers before the nigiri, you'll feel fully satisfied.
The shari (sushi rice) for Edomae sushi is red shari, well-balanced with red vinegar. Red shari has a refreshing taste that pairs well with fatty neta (toppings). The chef keeps the shari temperature generally high, resulting in an excellent melt-in-your-mouth texture for the tuna.
Among the restaurant's signature seared dishes, I found the "Nodoguro" (blackthroat seaperch) most memorable. Nodoguro is a fatty fish, and a light sear increases its umami. Nodoguro is delicious regardless of the season. At Kawano, be sure to savor the sweet fat and deep flavor of Nodoguro.
- Address: 72-8 Shimogamo Higashihankicho, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto
- Closed: Mondays
- Phone: 050-3503-4867
- Hours: Tuesday (17:30-21:00), Wednesday to Sunday (12:00-14:00, 17:30-21:00)
- Website: https://www.tablecheck.com/shops/sushi-kawano/reserve
Sushi Matsumoto
source： Official website
"Sushi Matsumoto" is an offshoot of a famous restaurant in Tokyo's Akasaka that has earned one Michelin star for two consecutive years. The lunch "Omakase Course" is particularly good value, and I highly recommend it. With both counter seats and private rooms available, it's suitable for various occasions.
The "sunoko" (the part from the lower jaw to the chest) of Minke whale served as sashimi was surprisingly delicious. Sunoko is a marbled cut with less distinctive flavor compared to other parts. The thickness is carefully considered, resulting in a texture that's chewy yet creamy, with a richness that rivals tuna toro.
Of course, the tuna is also exquisite. The fish are sourced through a special route from a fishmonger rather than from the market. The umami that oozes from the lean tuna spreads in your mouth, making you want to savor it again and again.
While red shari made with red vinegar is common in Edomae sushi, this restaurant uses a blend of four types of vinegar. Furthermore, they adjust the acidity of the shari for each seat, considering the different temperatures at the counter and table seats, to provide sushi in the best possible condition.
- Address: 99 Maoyacho, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto
- Closed: Irregular holidays
- Phone: 075-606-5710
- Hours: [Weekdays] Lunch 11:30-14:00, Dinner 17:00-23:00 [Weekends and Holidays] Lunch 11:30-14:00, Dinner 16:00-23:00
- Website: https://sushi-matsumoto-g.com/shop/kyoto/
Pontocho Sushi Ishiya
source：Tabelog
"Pontocho Sushi Ishiya" is a hidden gem tucked away in the alleys of Pontocho. In a relaxed atmosphere, you can enjoy meals at reasonable prices.
There are two types of courses, and both serve many seasonal dishes before the sushi. These courses are also very filling and popular among tourists.
This restaurant's specialty is not just sushi, but also meat dishes using "Kyo no niku," a Kyoto Prefecture brand beef. The same quality beef as their sister restaurant "Yakiniku Ishiya" is included in the course. This beef has a smooth texture and a pure, straightforward meat flavor.
The tuna, which seems to be served at just the right moment, is sourced from Fujita Suisan, famous as the only tuna broker in Kyoto from Toyosu market. The quality of Fujita Suisan's tuna is among the best in Japan, allowing you to enjoy the deliciousness of fresh akami (lean tuna) and toro (fatty tuna).
- Address: Pontocho 24th alley, 210 Nabeya-cho, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto
- Closed: Wednesdays (*They can open for lunch or on Wednesdays if you make a reservation)
- Phone: 050-5589-6125
- Hours: 17:00-23:00 (Last order 22:30)
- Website: https://www.instagram.com/sushi.ishiya.pontocho
Sushi Hayashi
source： Official website
The last Michelin-listed restaurant we're introducing is "Sushi Hayashi," where the chef was involved in setting up the sushi restaurant at Four Seasons Kyoto. Here, you can enjoy a fusion of "Edomae sushi × Kyo sushi" using ingredients from waters near Kyoto.
My favorites are the Sea Urchin Gunkan Sushi and mackerel sushi. The nori in the Sea Urchin Gunkan Sushi melts in your mouth excellently, and the unique sweetness of the sea urchin lingers for a long time.
The mackerel sushi uses slightly sweet shari cooked firmly with dashi. Although it's cooked firmly, it breaks apart immediately in your mouth, perfectly matching the moist feeling of both the mackerel and the shari.
This restaurant is one of the few sushi places that offers Swiss wines, which have an export volume of only 1%. Moreover, the chef can speak French as he trained in Switzerland. If you're looking for exceptionally high-level hospitality and service, be sure to visit Sushi Hayashi.
- Address: Gran Cosmo Gosho 101, 31-1 Omotecho, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto
- Closed: Wednesdays and Thursdays (Other irregular holidays)
- Phone: 075-746-3020
- Hours: Monday and Friday (18:00-21:00), Tuesday, Saturday, and Sunday (12:00-14:00, 18:00-21:00)
- Website: https://hayashi-sushi.com/
3 Sushi Restaurants Where You Can Enjoy Excellent Sushi at Reasonable Prices
Kyoto Gion Shinchi Izuu
source： Official website
When it comes to mackerel sushi in Kyoto's Gion district, "Kyoto Gion Shinchi Izuu" is a must-visit. Founded in 1781, it's an establishment with over 240 years of history.
I love their signature "saba sugata sushi" (whole mackerel sushi). The mackerel sushi is wrapped in kelp, which you remove before eating. Thanks to the umami of the kelp permeating the mackerel, the fat is sweet, and the mackerel seems to melt in your mouth. The shari has a slight acidity that refreshes the aftertaste of the mackerel's fat, making it easy to eat several pieces.
In fact, there's a special point only for eating Izuu's mackerel sushi. The kelp wrapped around Izuu's mackerel sushi is thin, so you can eat just the kelp afterward. It's delicious with a bit of mackerel umami absorbed into it.
When I visited, I saw foreign tourists repeatedly saying "Delicious!" while eating. If you visit Kyoto, be sure to stop by Izuu, the birthplace of mackerel sushi.
- Address: 367 Kiyomoto-cho, Yasaka Shinchi, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto
- Closed: Tuesdays (Open on holidays and during festivals)
- Phone: 075-561-0751
- Hours: 11:00-22:00 (11:00-21:00 on Sundays and holidays)
- Website: https://www.izuu.jp/
Sushizen
source：Tabelog
When it comes to chirashi sushi in Kyoto, "Sushizen" is the place to go. Founded in 1939, this aged establishment was selected for the Michelin Guide 2023 Bib Gourmand.
The most popular dish at Sushizen is the "seafood chirashi sushi." As a chirashi sushi lover myself, this is one of my favorite places. As of July 2024, it's offered at a very reasonable price of 1,700 yen.
When you order the seafood chirashi sushi, what appears before you is a surface of kinshi tamago (shredded egg crepe). Lifting the kinshi tamago reveals seafood underneath, coated with a homemade sweet sauce. Digging through the seafood, you finally see the nori and vinegared rice.
The toppings include plenty of tuna, sea bream, conger eel, yellowtail, squid, and octopus. The homemade sauce coats the toppings, creating a unified taste with the vinegared rice, nori, and kinshi tamago. While the seasoning is refined in typical Kyoto style, the layered flavors create a taste that's both gentle and impactful.
I recommend ordering the clear soup separately, as it doesn't come with the chirashi sushi. Also, the service is quick, making it ideal for a meal between sightseeing spots when time is limited.
- Address: 41-2 Kinugasa-cho, Sanjo-dori Shinmachi Higashi-iru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto
- Closed: Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays
- Phone: 075-221-3848
- Hours: 10:00-18:00 (Until sold out)
- Website: https://tabelog.com/kyoto/A2601/A260202/26001255/
Izugen
source：Tabelog
"Izugen" is a branch store of "Kyoto Gion Shinchi Izuu" introduced earlier. The attractive point is its reasonable prices compared to Izuu.
My recommendation is the winter-limited "steamed sushi." It's essentially the restaurant's "chirashi sushi" steamed and warmed, with almost the same contents. The slight differences are the addition of wood ear mushrooms and chopped grilled conger eel on top.
Just by steaming and warming the chirashi sushi, the taste changes. Originally, this restaurant's chirashi sushi has a fluffy texture, but steaming adds elegance and makes the flavor milder.
- Address: 391 Takeyacho, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto
- Closed: Thursdays - Phone: 075-351-2516
- Hours: 11:00-14:30 (Last order 14:00), 15:30-19:00 (Last order 18:30)
- Website: https://www.instagram.com/sushi_idugen
3 Points to Maximize Your Sushi Enjoyment
Order "Omakase" to Enjoy Seasonal Sushi
Did you know that ingredients have a "shun" (peak season)? Seasonal ingredients are at their highest nutritional value and flavor, making them the most delicious. For example, sea bream is best in spring, eel in summer, and Pacific saury and salmon in autumn.
Professional chefs have more extensive knowledge about ingredients than we do. They also source ingredients with seasonality in mind.
By choosing "omakase" (chef's choice), the knowledgeable chef will serve you sushi made with seasonal ingredients to the fullest. This is overwhelmingly more delicious than ordering à la carte yourself. Whenever I have the option for "omakase," I order it without hesitation.
Remove Your Watch
If you're wearing a watch, remove it before eating sushi. This is to avoid scratching the precious sushi counter.
Most sushi restaurant counters are made from a "single plate" of wood. A single plate is a seamless board cut from a single tree. It retains the unique grain pattern of the wood and is often rare and expensive.
In the case of soft wood, even contact with the metal parts or strap of a watch can potentially cause scratches. Sushi chefs design not only the sushi but also the entire space, including the counter and tableware. Remove other accessories like bracelets as well to show respect for the sushi restaurant and enhance your dining experience.
Avoid Perfume and Smoking
When visiting a high-end sushi restaurant, avoid wearing perfume and refrain from smoking. Sushi is a cuisine that cherishes the aroma of its ingredients and is meant to be enjoyed with delicate flavors. To avoid interfering with these subtle flavors, it's necessary to avoid perfume.
Moreover, smoking not only leaves an odor on your body and clothes but also negatively affects your own sense of taste. Don't smoke not only inside the restaurant but also before visiting the sushi restaurant.
Observing these fragrance manners allows you to enjoy the sushi's flavors to the fullest and shows consideration for other customers. Follow these aroma etiquettes and savor the deliciousness of sushi.
If you are interested in Kyoto's Ryoutei & Kappou, check the article below! I summarized how and where you can enjoy Kyoto's Ryoutei & Kappou as much as possible.
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