In the 2020s, large-scale redevelopments are progressing in Tokyo, starting with Shibuya, significantly transforming the city into a futuristic one. In the midst of this, Yanaka Ginza is known for preserving the good old downtown area of Tokyo.
The retro townscape is popular even among Japanese people. Especially the main street (Yanaka Ginza shopping street), lined with over 60 individual shops, retains a nostalgic atmosphere reminiscent of the mid-20th century.
Furthermore, Yanaka Ginza has many shrines and temples, and it used to be home to many cats because of its cat-friendly environment. For this reason, it was also famous as a "cat town."
Traditional handicrafts, nostalgic retro goods, and surprisingly delicious foods fill the town. In this article, as a history and retro goods enthusiast, I will introduce recommended shops and spots in the Yanaka Ginza area.
Japanese Goods
TAMARU
Source: Yanaka Ginza official website
At TAMARU on the Yanaka Ginza shopping street, they sell Rakugo (traditional comic storytelling) goods and Japanese-style small items. Rakugo, a Japanese traditional comic art form, commands great respect for those who have mastered it. During the latter half of the 20th century, the popularity of Rakugo spread among the common people, and it became widely enjoyed.
One of the daughters of the three Rakugo masters who were active during that period started this TAMARU store to honor them. Here, you can purchase products inspired by those three masters, as well as various Rakugo goods. Since stores selling Rakugo goods are rare in Japan, the store is fascinating. I was also captivated for a while.
In addition to Rakugo goods, the store offers a wide range of souvenirs that evoke the traditions of Tokyo, including original Japanese-style towels (tenugui), small bags, and postcards with illustrations in the ukiyo-e style.
<Store Information>
- Address: 3-11-15 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- Closed: Irregular
- Phone: 03-5814-4425
- Hours: 10:00-19:00
- Official Website: https://x.gd/8xRQmM
Edo Folk Craft Amehiko
Source: Yanaka Ginza official website
At Edo Folk Craft Amehiko, they sell traditional handicrafts such as toys handmade by Japanese craftsmen. For example, the "karuta" cards sold here are a card game still played during the New Year in modern Japan.
Karuta and other card games like "hanafuda" (flower cards) were popular among the people of Edo (present-day Tokyo) from the 17th to 19th centuries. I loved playing karuta as a child, and the tradition continues to this day.
At Edo Folk Craft Amehiko, you can see traditional toys and Japanese dolls used in seasonal events, which were loved by generations of people and born from their ingenuity. These folk crafts convey the hearts of the craftsmen who made them and the people who cherished them over time. I highly recommend this shop for those interested in Japanese history.
<Store Information>
- Address: 3-11-14 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- Closed: Tuesdays
- Phone: 03-3828-1729
- Hours: 10:00-18:00
- Official Website: https://x.gd/7ZErU
Bamboo Crafts Midoriya
Source: Yanaka Ginza official website
Bamboo Crafts Midoriya deals in bamboo handicrafts. In Japan, bamboo has been an important material since ancient times. Bamboo baskets and other daily necessities were indispensable for daily life. Here at Midoriya, they sell chopsticks, coasters, and more, utilizing the bamboo crafting techniques passed down from their ancestors in the Tohoku region.
Additionally, they offer bamboo-made small containers, beer glasses, bookmarks, and more. Since these are handmade products, each item is one-of-a-kind. You can purchase expertly crafted, heartfelt pieces born from long-standing techniques. The natural and simple bamboo products are perfect souvenirs for your Japan trip or to incorporate a Japanese-style touch into your home interior.
<Store Information>
- Address: 3-13-3 Nishi-Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
- Closed: Mondays
- Phone: 03-3828-7522
- Hours: 11:00-18:00
- Official Website: https://x.gd/EO6V6
Miscellaneous Goods
Yanaka Ginza Tantan
Source: Official website
Yanaka Ginza Tantan, with its cute cat signboard, offers clothes and miscellaneous goods. The cozy interior is packed with clothing and goods, exuding a warm and homey atmosphere despite its small size.
The natural and gentle clothing is aimed at adult women, mainly featuring cotton and linen made from natural fibers that are gentle on the skin. Alongside apparel, they also sell cute and fun character figurines that make great gifts for children, as well as mugs, handkerchiefs, and, of course, a wide range of cat-themed goods befitting Yanaka, the "cat town."
<Store Information>
- Address: 3-15-2 Nishi-Nippori, Arakawa-ku, Tokyo
- Closed: Irregular
- Phone: 03-3827-5740
- Hours: 11:00-19:00
- Official Website: https://www.yanakaginza-tantan.com
General Store An
Source: Yanaka Ginza official website
At General Store An, they offer miscellaneous goods and retro items such as kitchenware, decorative items like animal figurines and ship models that evoke a sense of nostalgia. As a retro goods enthusiast, I get excited just looking around the store's atmospheric interior.
Among the numerous items, my favorites are the ukiyo-e woodblock prints by Utamaro and the precious old photographs that capture the landscapes of Japan from the early to mid-20th century. Whenever I come across old photographs, I can't help but feel like I've traveled back in time, immersing myself in them. This shop offers a different experience from typical modern souvenir shops, where you can find fascinating treasures.
<Store Information>
- Address: 3-13-1 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- Closed: Irregular
- Phone: None
- Hours: 10:00-19:00
- Official Website: https://x.gd/M2E0V
Household Goods
Yanaka Matsunoya
Source: Official website
Yanaka Matsunoya offers simple daily necessities made from natural materials, such as brooms, dustpans, baskets, and bags. All the items sold at Yanaka Matsunoya are made from natural materials. These practical yet simple household goods were born from the ingenuity and accumulated wisdom of common people's lives.
Even as a Japanese person, I'm not too familiar with traditional bamboo brooms used in old Japanese households. However, I find them refreshingly charming as they evoke a sense of life's wisdom.
Matsunoya cherishes these simple industrial crafts and sells them, collected from various regions of Japan and Asia. In our increasingly complex modern society, these sincere items can help us lead a more natural and fulfilling life.
<Store Information>
- Address: 3-14-14 Nishi-Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
- Closed: Tuesdays (open on holidays)
- Phone: 03-3823-7441
- Hours: 13:00-19:00 (10:00-19:00 on Sat, Sun, holidays)
- Official Website: http://www.yanakamatsunoya.jp/
Kamenoko-tawashi
Source: Official website
Kamenoko-tawashi is a shop specializing in tawashi (scrub brushes) and sponges for washing dishes and other items. In the early 20th century, a plant fiber called shuro was twisted with wire into a tortoise-like round shape, and this became a bestselling product known as "kamenoko-tawashi" due to its superior cleaning ability and ease of use compared to conventional products.
Since then, it has become a household item found in almost every school and home across Japan. Even now, they are meticulously handcrafted from natural fibers and loved by professional chefs around the world. At this direct-sales shop, you can find practical and appreciated souvenirs like the ultimate high-quality kamenoko-tawashi and sponges.
<Store Information>
- Address: 1F-A, SENTO Bldg., 2-19-8 Nezu, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo
- Closed: Mondays (from August 1, 2022). If Monday is a holiday, the shop will be open, and the following Tuesday will be closed.
- Phone: 03-5842-1907
- Hours: 11:00-18:00
- Official Website: https://www.kamenoko-tawashi.co.jp/about/directshops
Shops Selling Cat-Themed Goods
Nuno-fusen
Source: Yanaka Ginza official website
Nuno-fusen is a shop that sells cat-themed goods. It offers a wide range of cat-inspired daily items, such as bottle cases, chopsticks, and mugs. Yanaka Ginza is known as one of Tokyo's cat towns, as there were many temples that kept cats for catching mice, and the town's narrow alleys provided hiding spots for stray cats.
The residents of this downtown area have long cherished the cats that leisurely strolled through the town. Nuno-fusen is a representative cat shop in the cat town. In addition to an impressive collection of cat-related goods, the shop has a resident cat named Shinchan, affectionately known as the "Operating Director." If you're lucky, you might get to meet the director.
<Store Information>
- Address: 3-11-14 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- Closed: Irregular
- Phone: 03-5685-6788
- Hours: 10:30-18:00
- Official Website: https://x.gd/HDltf
Neko-action
Source: Neko-action official website
For cute cat-themed stationery, accessories, and other goods in the cat town of Yanaka Ginza, visit Neko-action. Without exception, every product sold here features a cat motif. Rather than practical pet supplies, the focus is on adorable novelty items. My personal recommendation is the convenient and cute cat-patterned folding umbrella.
True to the shop's concept of "for those who can't live without cats," Neko-action is a store for true cat lovers. Amidst the overflowing cat goods, you can find your ultimate cat item. It's a delightful experience to discover something uniquely appealing to you.
<Store Information>
- Address: 3-10-5 Nishi-Sugamo, Toshima-ku, Tokyo
- Closed: Mondays (open on holidays)
- Phone: None
- Hours: 11:00-18:00
- Official Website: https://necoaction.com/
Accessory Shops
Kokuu
Source: Google Map
At the accessory shop Kokuu, you can purchase poetic accessories designed and created by the artist-designer owner. Each piece by Kokuu has its own fantastical story.
The shop owner, who studied metalworking at an art university, creates artistic accessories and objects. As soon as you step inside, you'll be captivated by the exquisite beauty of the products, which are artistic yet highly fashionable.
They also offer custom-made wedding rings, where you can place a semi-order after viewing the sample products. Since the store is open on an irregular basis, be sure to check their Instagram or website for the schedule before visiting.
<Store Information>
- Closed: Sundays, Holidays (check official website/Instagram)
- Phone: 03-5834-2432
- Hours: 11:30-16:00 (Weekdays), 11:30-17:00 (Saturdays, irregular openings)
- Official Website: https://kokuutokyo.com/
凹凸(Dekoboko)do Yanaka Ginza
Source: Official website
At Dekobokodo Yanaka Ginza, you can purchase accessories made with glass beads called "tonbodama" and natural stones. The patterned round glass beads are known as "tonbodama" in Japan and have been crafted here. Their popularity especially spread among the common people from the 16th to 18th centuries.
The highlight of Dekobokodo Yanaka Ginza is their "nekodama" accessories, featuring a cat's face motif on the round tonbodama beads. With the adorable cat ears, I couldn't resist exclaiming, "How cute!" and reaching out to them.
Their Oriental-style natural stone accessories themed around the four guardian deities believed in across Asia are also recommended.
<Store Information>
- Address: 3-11-11 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- Closed: Open year-round
- Phone: 03-5842-1922
- Hours: 10:00-18:00
- Official Website: https://www.tanzawa-net.co.jp/shop/39.html
Edo Bekkou Tanaka
Source: Google Map
At Edo Bekkou Tanaka, you can purchase beautiful bekko (tortoiseshell) accessories. Bekko is a processed material made from the hawksbill sea turtle, a type of sea turtle. In Japan, it has historically been beloved as a decorative item and is now considered one of the traditional Japanese crafts.
For Japanese people, bekko evokes the image of luxurious decorative items like hair ornaments (kanzashi) worn by high-class women during the Edo period (17th-18th centuries), as bekko complemented kimono styles very well and was highly popular among fashionable individuals.
At Edo Bekkou Tanaka, popular items include cat-shaped necklaces unique to Yanaka and simple yet elegant stone-like earrings suitable for adults. The delicate craftsmanship highlights the beautiful luster of the material.
<Store Information>
- Address: 3-22-8 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- Closed: Sundays, Holidays
- Phone: 03-3828-9870
- Hours: Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00
- Official Website: https://www.tanakabekko.jp/blank-11
Street Food Shops
Meat Suzuki
Source: Yanaka Ginza official website
At Meat Suzuki, you can purchase menchikatsu (a fried ground meat patty) and korokke (potato croquettes), which are specialty street foods of the Yanaka Ginza shopping street. Menchikatsu is a dish made by deep-frying a mixture of ground beef and onions. Along with korokke, made from a mixture of ground meat and potatoes, these have been popular snacks among children and adults alike since olden times, often appearing in anime as well.
It's a cultural tradition in Japan to buy these classic snacks from small shops like this and enjoy them while shopping or strolling around the area.
Meat Suzuki uses a blend of domestic Japanese beef and Australian beef. They change the frying oil three times a day, ensuring their menchikatsu and korokke are always crispy. Be sure to try them piping hot, freshly fried on the spot.
<Store Information>
- Address: 3-9-15 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- Closed: Mondays, Tuesdays
- Phone: 03-3821-4526
- Hours: 10:30-18:00
- Official Website: https://x.gd/XJSN7
Maruhatsu Fukushima Shoten
Source: Official blog
Maruhatsu Fukushima Shoten is a shop specializing in delicious shellfish and freshwater fish, also known as "kawago" (river fish). They offer a variety of fish and seafood dishes according to the season, such as scallops, eel, oysters, and ayu (sweetfish), all priced reasonably at around 100-200 yen per skewer. They also sell yakitori (grilled chicken skewers).
The shellfish and shrimp are sold on skewers, making them perfect for eating while strolling around. I personally recommend sitting on the beer crate benches in front of the shop and enjoying the food in the evening atmosphere – it's the best way to relax.
While delicious seafood can be found all over Tokyo, what you can savor at Maruhatsu Fukushima Shoten is the simple, down-to-earth deliciousness closely tied to daily life. The old-fashioned store front and the perfectly salted, simple flavors enhance the taste.
<Store Information>
- Address: 3-13-4 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- Closed: Sundays, Holidays
- Phone: 03-3822-2315
- Hours: 9:00-19:00
- Official Website: https://ameblo.jp/maruhatsu55
Yanaka-shippoya
Source: Tabelog
At Yanaka-shippoya, you can purchase doughnuts shaped like a cat's tail, appropriately long and thin. They offer various flavors such as chocolate cream, camembert, and white chocolate chips, all priced around 150 yen. These simple and homey treats are perfect for snacking while strolling around.
Despite their simple production method, they are baked using high-quality domestic wheat flour and aluminum-free baking powder. Each product is adorably named after common Japanese cat names like Tora, adding to the enjoyment. If you can read Japanese, be sure to check them out.
<Store Informatio>
- Address: 3-11-12 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- Closed: Irregular
- Phone: 03-3822-9517
- Hours: 10:00-18:00, 10:00-19:00 (Sat, Sun, Holidays)
- Official Website: https://x.gd/LFUGa
Sights Around Yanaka Ginza
Yuyake Dandan
Source: Jalan
Yuyake Dandan (sunset steps), located at the entrance of the Yanaka Ginza shopping street, is known as a famous sunset viewing spot. Just below the steps is the main Yanaka Ginza shopping street. Looking from the top of the steps towards the shopping street, you can see the sunset in the distance beyond the street.
This spot has long been loved by locals, and the name "Yuyake Dandan" was chosen through a public poll in the 1990s. It has now become a must-visit famous spot for those visiting Yanaka. Seeing the nostalgic old town bathed in the sunset glow, with people happily shopping, is sure to evoke a nostalgic feeling.
Yanaka Cemetery
Yanaka has a history of flourishing as a temple town since the 17th century, with many shrines and temples located here. The graveyards of several small temples combined to form the Yanaka Cemetery.
With graves of many cultural figures and novelists, the cemetery is famous for its serene and unique atmosphere, frequently appearing in literature. While it is a graveyard, visitors are permitted to stroll through, surrounded by a tranquil historical beauty free from any sense of eeriness.
In spring, it is known as a famous spot for cherry blossoms, making it ideal to visit during that season. Additionally, as it is located on a hill, you can see the iconic Tokyo Skytree from here at any time. Enjoy a peaceful moment away from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo while taking in the views.
<Information>
- Address: 7-5-24 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- Closed: December 29 - January 3 (New Year's)
- Phone: 03-3821-4456
- Hours: 8:30-17:30
- Official Website: https://www.tokyo-park.or.jp/reien/yanaka/index.html
Nezu Shrine
Source: Official website
Nezu Shrine is an extremely old shrine, with a history dating back as far as 1,900 years according to the shrine. Throughout Japanese history, as Shinto and Buddhism intermingled and separated, the shrine has remained an integral part of the local Yanaka community. Around April, it is known as a famous spot for azaleas, surrounded by beautiful flowers and greenery that provide a soothing atmosphere.
Even for someone like me who enjoys shrine visits, Nezu Shrine exudes the warm atmosphere of a downtown area. You can feel the presence of the local deity that has watched over this lively town for many years.
The thousand Torii gates here resemble the famous Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto. As long as you follow proper manners, it makes for a great photo spot.
<Information>
- Address: 1-28-9 Nezu, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo
- Closed: None
- Phone: 03-3822-0753
- Hours: 9:00-17:00
- Official Website: https://nedujinja.or.jp/
I have introduced shops and spots in the old downtown area of Yanaka Ginza in Tokyo. Strolling through the old town with its narrow streets, you may encounter cats, be surprised by small temples and graves, and discover famous flower spots. Unlike the modern areas of Tokyo, you can deeply experience the down-to-earth Japanese culture that remains untouched.
The Magical Trip's "Yanaka Historical Walking Tour in Tokyo's Old Town” offers a 3-hour guided tour in English, providing in-depth explanations of the highlights in Yanaka Ginza. Why not learn more about the profound history of Yanaka and downtown Tokyo through this tour?